Protecting Your Melon

Every time you ride a bike a helmet should automatically be on you head. In California it's the law for kids to wear helmets but adults have a choice. To me that choice is either protect your noggin, your melon, your skull, your dome, your brain box... whatever you want to call it, OR be an idiot. It seems to me that a helmet is the least you can wear to protect you if you are unfortunate enough to have an accident.

While you may not HAVE to wear one as an adult in California, you DO have to wear one when you race in a triathlon. The rules state:

(a) Type of Helmet. All participants shall wear a protective head cover, undamaged and unaltered, which meets or exceeds the safety standards of the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC). Helmets manufactured prior to March 10, 1999 must meet or exceed the safety standards of (i) the American National Standard Institute (ANSI Z-90.4), (ii) The Snell Memorial Foundation (Protective Headgear for Bicycle Users), or (iii) ASTM F-1446 or F-1447, and which is clearly labeled by the manufacturer as satisfying such standards. Removal of helmet cover, if required for that helmet to meet such safety standards, shall constitute an impermissible alteration in violation of this Section 5.9(a). Any violation of this Section 5.9(a) shall result in disqualification.


(b) Chin Strap Violations. The helmet must be fastened before the participant first mounts the bicycle, at all times when the participant is on the bicycle, and must not be unfastened until the participant has dismounted. Any violation of this Section 5.9(b) which occurs while the participant is in the transition area shall result in a variable time penalty. Any other violation of this Section shall result in disqualification. This Section 5.9(b) shall be enforced at all times while at the event site on race day.

Old helmets are not a good idea. If you have one from the 1990's or early 2000's it may be too old to use. Look at the helmet and see if it has a CPSC approval sticker somewhere on the inside. If it was bought at a retail store in the United States in the last few years, it will probably have one. If it's old or was purchased outside of the US it may not have this sticker. Without the sticker the helmet is not acceptable to wear in the race. Since you'll need one that's approved for the race you might as well get one now so you can get comfortable and be protected.

You do NOT need to get anything fancy. You should be able to spend under $40. Bike shops, Sports Authority, Target, Big 5, REI, or any large sporting goods store should have them. All of them are essentially styrofoam and a plastic shell, plus the web strapping that helps the helmet fit so the main thing to look for is an easy-working inside strap that ratchets down with a turn of the dial (a dial-to-fit type of system), a comfortable fit, and something you like the looks of. As long as it's an actual helmet meant for a bike and has a CPSC approved sticker inside, you're good to go. Essentially, if it's a helmet sold in a retail store in the US it will meet the standards. (Just make sure there's a sticker inside.) These should last you for many years.

Rules for Riding in a Triathlon

Here are the official rules about riding a bike during a triathlon regarding where you are in relation to other riders on the course.
Position Rules:
a. Absolutely NO DRAFTING of another bike or any other vehicle is allowed.
b. Athletes must ride single file on the far right side of the road except when
passing another rider. Side-by-side riding is not allowed.
c. Overtaking riders may pass on the left for up to 20 seconds, but must move
back to the right side of the road after passing.
d. Riders must keep 7 meters (~4 bike lengths) distance between bikes except
when passing.
e. An overtaken rider must fall back 7 meters (~4 bike lengths) before attempting
to regain the lead.

These rules are enforced to a varying degree depending on the situation. The strictest enforcement is usually applied to the more elite and faster athletes but middle- and back-of-the-packers are not immune from these rules.

So here is an explanation of the rules and how you should think about them. Always ride to the far right side of the road so that other, faster riders can pass you. When you need to pass someone who is riding slower than you go around them to their left and warn them that you are coming up behind them. Yell "hello" or "good morning" or "does this suck or what?" or "you're doing great" or "on your left!". These are all common things to do so don't be embarrassed. If they are not riding to the far right this will also clue them in to move over so you can pass. Do NOT pass them on the right.

"Drafting" is prohibited. This means you are not allowed to ride close behind someone and let them break the wind (no, I don't mean that kind of wind). If someone is riding faster than you and passes you, let her go. Don't try to stay with her. You should even slow down ever so slightly for a few seconds so that she can get far enough ahead of you that there will be space between the two of you. (The official gap is supposed to be 7 meters or about 4 bike lengths.) If you are riding at a steady rate and come up on someone you need to pass, pedal a little bit harder so that you don't take a long time to pass her. (Remember... "On your left!") Once you've clearly passed her, move back over to the far right side.

Riding side by side is also not allowed. This is to keep the path clear for faster riders and to prevent people from being shielded if wind is blowing sideways across the course. If you find one of your "teammates" on the course it's okay to catch up with them and say a few words but then you need to speed up so that you can complete your pass. The other person needs to drop back so that there is a good gap between you two. Remind them to do this! (The official distance is 7 meters or about 4 bike lengths.)

Okay, pop quiz: What's the official distance you need to have between you and the bike in front of you?

Tips for the Iron Girl Atlanta Bike Ride

As you know, the Iron Girl Atlanta bike ride is 18 miles long. There are some hills on the course along with some nice scenery. You will want to be prepared mentally to complete the ride and still be able to run, or walk, the 3 miles to the finish. Here are some tips to help you do just that.

Start off easier than you think you need to go. You will likely be excited about being done with the swim and ready to move on to the next segment. Control that energy and don't pedal too hard at the start. Take the first 5 or 10 minutes to get comfortable and relaxed as much as you can.

Always ride to the right so others can pass. If you need to pass, check behind you to make sure it's clear, move to the left, and pass someone. Do not spend more than a few seconds riding side-by-side with someone else. Otherwise you will be blocking the way for other riders.

The hills can be challenging if you let them psych you out. Don't let them. Take one hill at a time and just keep pedaling. Choose a gear that will make it easier for you to ride instead of a harder gear one that will cause you to slow your legs down and make you really push hard. Also, if you have to walk your bike then do that but only give yourself permission if you simply can't do it pedaling.

Do not stop when going uphill if you can avoid it. This way when you start riding again you will be on a downhill where it's easier to get going again. Need a drink? Go OVER the top before you stop to reward yourself with a drink. Need to adjust something? Go OVER the top if you can.

You will need to have a water bottle on your bike. Drink a few ounces every 10 or 15 min. Don't wait until you are very thisty because then you are already dehydrated. Unless you are comfortable reaching for your bottle while you ride, be sure to stop on the downhill side of a hill. And make sure you are way to the right so you are out of the path of other riders.

You will also need nutrition on the bike. Nutrition means both electrolytes (like salt) and calories. You can use a sports drink like Gatoraide that contains carbohydrates (energy), electrolytes, and liquid. This can be a substitute for the water.  If you don’t like sports drinks you can stick with water but take in something that contains electrolytes and calories. Sports Beans, a type of jelly bean with electrolytes in it, are good and taste like candy (because they pretty much are!) You can eat a few of these every time you drink water. About 150-250 calories is as much as you’ll want. That’s about 2 packages of beans.

A 3^rd alternative is to drink a non caloric drink with electrolytes and then consume energy gels, sometimes called Gu. Unless you are experienced with this I would stay away from this option for the ride.  Gatoraid , Poweraid (or similar sports energy drink), or water and Sports Beans are simpler choices.

The next post will be on the bike rules about drafting, blocking, and the like that are enforced during the race.

Gears and Pedal Speed

New athletes to cycling often wonder about two things when they’re riding: how fast they should pedal and, with so many choices, what gear should they ride in?

Deciding how fast you should pedal is the easier of the 2 questions. The speed you turn the pedals is usually called cadence. You measure cadence by counting how many times your right (OR  left) leg completes a full revolution in one minute. Exercise bikes and some spin bikes may have this number displayed for you. Unless you have a ‘bike computer’ on your bike you may have to count it yourself. Do this in a safe area where traffic and other hazards are at a minimum. Using a watch that displays seconds, count each time your leg comes up on the pedal stroke for 20 seconds. Now multiply this number by 3 to get your cadence.

Under most conditions it has been shown that people tend to be most efficient at around 90 revolutions per minute (rpm). Is 65 okay? I would say that's too slow. When you turn the pedals at that cadence it's a lot like lifting a heavy weight - you fatigue pretty quickly and can’t do very many repetitions. What about 75 per minute? You're getting closer and that would be much better. Once you start getting into the low to mid 80 rpm range you are pretty close to the sweet spot. Will this be easy to do? No, not right away, unless you are already used to it. You'll need to practice it. What if it's just too hard to pedal that fast?

That brings us to the gear question. Choosing what gear to ride in is a bit more complicated but not a lot. If it is too hard to pedal at 80, 85, or 90 rpms then you are probably using a gear that's too high. Shift into a lower gear to make it easier for you to turn the pedals faster. It seems complicated because of all of those gear/sprocket/metal-toothed thingys there on your bike. Those big, metal-toothed sprockets next to your right pedal are called chainrings. Many bikes have 2 of these while some have one or three.

Together the group of sprockets on the back wheel is called a cassette. Each individual ring in the cassette is called a cog. It is helpful to know which is a chainring and which is a cog.

You will have two shifters on your handlebars to change gears. The left shifter changes gearing between the chainrings next to your pedal. The right shifter changes which cog you are using. The chainrings make the biggest change when you change gears. If you move the left shifter you make a big jump, making pedaling either much easier or much harder. If you move the right shifter you make a smaller jump up or down – more of a fine tuning adjustment.

But which one should you use? Use the one that allows you to pedal comfortably in that 80-90rpm cadence range. Start off easier, in the small chainring (the one by your pedal) and one of the middle cogs (the ones on your back wheel). Shift to a harder cog if that’s too easy. If you keep moving the right shifter and it’s still too easy, shift to the big chainring. What “number” gear you’re in doesn’t matter. What matters is being able to turn your pedals at a good cadence while still being relatively comfortable. 

Here are a couple of examples. If you are riding up a fairly steep hill you will probably ride in the small chainring and one of the easiest cogs. If you are on a downhill you probably will be in the big chainring and one of the harder cogs. Experiment to see what works for you.

Finally, shifting gears smoothly takes practice and anticipation. You cannot shift gears unless you are pedaling. If you are coasting along, not moving the pedals, and you move the shifter, nothing will happen. You must be pedaling forward before the gear will change. But there is a little trick with this. In order for the bike to shift smoothly you need to be pedaling softly as you change gears. If you are pushing down hard on your pedals as you shift, the gear may not change. Instead you may hear some metal grinding sounds. Ease up on your force for a brief second or two (don’t stop pedaling though) and it will do what you want it to. 

As you approach a hill you will shift into the small chainring slightly ahead of time, before you start to slow down very much. As you go up the hill, if that isn’t easy enough, you shift to an easier cog. Anticipate this so you can shift before you find your legs barely being able to turn. Once the hill begins to flatten out or you reach the top, you will shift to a harder cog and, if need be, to the big chainring. Anticipate needing to do this so that your legs aren't spinning around like the Roadrunner in the cartoon because you waited too long to shift.

PRACTICE! Prop your bike’s rear wheel up off the ground, or ask someone to hold it up for you. Turn the pedals with your hand and move the shifters so that you can actually watch as the gears change. Then take your bike to a parking lot or a hard grass or dirt field and practice gear changes. This way you won't have to worry about cars, obstacles, or other riders. You will gain confidence and be more comfortable after a little practice.